Grooming

At a minimum, every grooming kit should include:

• Rubber curry comb: Loosens dirt and stimulates circulation.
• Stiff brush (dandy brush): Removes dirt and loose hair after currying.
• Medium or soft brush: Gentle brushing for sensitive areas.
• Soft brush/finishing brush: Removes fine dust and smooths the coat.
• Hoof pick: Clears mud, stones, and debris from hooves.
  
  

Look for smaller, lightweight, and colorful options:

• Pony-sized stiff and soft brushes.
• Small soft rubber curry.
• Child-friendly hoof pick.
• Gentle shedding tools like a Shed Flower.
• Brush box or tote to keep tools organized.

• Remove bot fly eggs promptly using a bot egg knife or grooming block.
• Apply detangler before combing tails for easier management.
• Keep all tools clean to avoid irritation or skin issues.
  

How often should I bathe my horse?

Only when needed. Too-frequent bathing can dry out the coat and skin.

When temperatures are warm enough to keep your horse comfortable and healthy.

Sponges (separate for body, face, and genitals), shampoo, sweat scraper, mitt, towels, and a bucket or hose with a spray nozzle.

Only for specific skin conditions, and ideally after consulting your veterinarian.

Use a sweat scraper, towel-dry the legs, and put on a cooler or sheet if needed.

Yes, but avoid areas where tack sits and don’t use them on the mane if you plan to braid.

In winter, horses naturally grow thicker coats and produce more skin oils (grease). Together, these help protect them from cold, wind, and wet conditions.

When a horse is worked regularly, sweat mixes with the natural grease in the coat, creating a sticky film that mats the hair. This thick, matted coat dries very slowly and loses its insulating ability, which can leave the horse chilled and more vulnerable to illness.

Body clipping involves removing some or all of a horse’s winter coat to help regulate body temperature during exercise. It’s especially useful for horses in regular winter work that sweat heavily.

No. If your horse is lightly worked, ridden infrequently, or only hacked at an easy pace, clipping is usually unnecessary. Horses in steady, regular work are the ones most likely to benefit from some form of clipping.

Clipping is a commitment. Once hair is removed, the horse loses natural insulation and will require blanketing. Depending on the clip, this may include:

• Different weights of blankets
• Stable sheets
• Neck covers or hoods
• Exercise rugs or coolers
  

This decision should be made before you start clipping.

A strip clip is the most minimal option. Hair is removed in a narrow strip along:

• The front of the neck (jugular)
• The chest
• The belly

Best for: Horses in light work where minimal blanketing is preferred.

Originally used for harness horses, this clip removes hair from areas where horses sweat most:

• Underside and sides of the neck
• Shoulders
• Belly

Hair is left on the legs and body. The width of the clipped area can vary from narrow to halfway up the horse.

Best for: Moderately worked horses.

This clip leaves hair on the back, hindquarters, and legs, making it look like the horse is wearing a natural exercise rug. Hair is removed from:

• Head
• Neck
• Flanks
  

Best for: Horses in regular, heavier winter work. Blanketing is usually required.

Commonly used for field hunters, this clip removes most of the coat while leaving:

• A saddle-shaped patch on the back (for protection from tack)
• Hair on the legs (for warmth and protection)

Best for: Horses in hard work. Requires consistent blanketing.

All hair is removed, including the legs and face. The ears should not be clipped in winter, as ear hair protects against frostbite.

Best for: Show or competition horses. Requires full blanketing and often a neck cover or hood.

What type of clippers should I use for body clipping?

Use clippers designed specifically for full-body clipping. These are built to:

• Run for long periods
• Use wide blades
• Handle thick winter coats

Do not use small trim or touch-up clippers for body clipping—they will take much longer and may damage the motor.

What blade size should I use?

Blade numbers indicate how short the hair will be. Higher numbers = shorter cuts.

#10 Blade – Coarse Cut

• Leaves the longest hair
• Commonly used for body clipping
• Ideal for legs and beginners
• Forgiving for mistakes

Available in regular and wide versions (wide blades are best for body clipping).

#15 Blade – Medium Cut

• Cuts shorter than a #10
• Commonly used for the head
  

#30 Blade – Medium/Fine Cut

• Used for show finishing
• Ideal for faces, ears (inside), eyes, and muzzle
  

#40 Blade – Fine/Surgical Cut

• Cuts extremely close to the skin
• Can leave microscopic nicks
• Typically used only for medical or specialized show purposes